Monday, 25 May 2015

Simplicity Blogger Challenge - Part 1 and a Tailors Tack Top Tip

Hello! Well this week I have made a start on my entry for the Simplicity Blogger Challenge, the challenge being having it finished for the 31st!

I am making the 60's retro vintage pattern, Simplicity 1364, View A but with a couple of wee changes.

I have had to make some serious adjustments to this pattern. 

This is the front showing where my bust apex is (the pink squiggly dot) compared to the pattern.  The pencilled in triangle above it is the French dart that is supposed to start under my bust .All I can say is "oh dear". You can also see that I also drew in the smallest size neckline (the lower line) and this is the one that I cut out.

My adjustments were as follows:
  • 1-inch broad back adjustment from mid-shoulder and a corresponding dart to close it back off again.
  • Lower the French dart 2-inches and redraw it so that it was about 2 inches lower than my bust apex.
  • 2-inch FBA and added in an additional dart to give me some extra bust shaping.
  • Added a bit of extra length.
I bought some great fabric from Fenwick's in Newcastle, a thin black cotton and a couple of half-metre pieces of "Blueberry Skies" from Clothworks. Both are the same pattern but slightly different colourways. 

I am making the top in the solid black with bias binding trim made from both patterned fabrics. I think it's pretty obvious now that I have a bit of a thing for bias binding. I do think that it is a good choice for my inspiration but you will need to wait for the next post and the photos for that.

I have a lot of vintage dress zips from the 60's/70's and I had quite a few colours to choose from. I have chosen the purple as it is such a pretty colour. This top will have a sort-of exposed zipper.

I do have a top tip to share. I was really good and marked all the pattern marking and darts with tailors tacks but I have a terrible habit of making them too tight and end up nicking my fabric when they are cut apart. To stop me doing this I now make the loops round a pen, or something of the same sort of size, and this leaves me loads of room to snip between the two fabric pieces and makes lovely fluffy loops.

The trim will be round the sleeves, the neckline and possibly the bottom. I am not decided yet. You can get a surprising amount of binding from half a metre. Dug out my blind hem foot to stitch the edges of the binding down. It works very well giving a nice even stitch from the edge (after I got the hang of it but we won't talk about that). Really needs a press here but looks way better in real life.

Anyway, I am keeping the rest of this top under wraps until next week. Having a bit of a shoot with it on Saturday, nothing like the last minute, but I am so looking forward to sharing it and my inspiration.

Hope that you are all having a nice week and enjoying the weather where you are.

Till Sunday. (Dun, dun...Daaaaaa)!



  1. Love the pattern, and I'm sure the top will look great, that contrast bias will be fantastic!
    All your adjustments are very impressive - that's a sticking point for me, if a pattern doesn't for quite right, I have NO idea how to fix it! Something to learn, I guess... xxx

    1. Thanks Curtise. The fabric makes great binding. Really abstract and great colours. I think that learning what adjustments I need really has lifted my sewing up at level. It is easy to do them for other people but very hard to fit yourself. Do you have a sewing book that gives you adjustments? The old ones are the best. Xx

  2. Can't wait to see this! Love the tip.

  3. Can't wait to see this! Love the tip.

  4. Can't wait to see this! Love the tip.

    1. Thanks and thanks! I wasn't going to post the tip as it is just a silly wee thing but I have ruined so many things over the years and it has really saved my bacon. Plus the cut threads are long enough so that they don't fall out by themselves. Xx

  5. It looks stunning, I'm looking forward to the grand reveal! xx

    1. Thanks Josie. I am looking forward to finishing it. It has been fun to make. xx