Plus-Sized Sewing Scientist with a Love of Corsets, Kittens & Cake! Vintage Seamstress, Novice Knitter and All-Round Crafty Type.
Thursday, 20 May 2010
Vintage Pattern Grading for Plus-Sizes
Ok, so now that I have a suitably large stash of vintage patterns, a huge fabric stash and more notions than one woman has a right to, it's time to get busy and start making them up. However, before I can do that I have to grade them and not just a little bit either. So where to start? Conventional wisdom has it that it is not worth grading up more than a couple of sizes as it will just turn out wrong. All the collars & pockets will be out of proportion and the darts will be off. Here at MOR, I say "to hell with convention" (I am sure that phrase will come back to haunt me).
We all know that the range of vintage patterns in a plus-size is pretty limited and that the ones that you fall in love and that will fit are very rare so I have decided to have a go making up one vintage pattern using a number of different grading methods to compare. I am going to try 3 ways: The slash 'n' spread, the pivot and slide and the grading method in my copy of "Metric Pattern Cutting" by Winifred Aldritch.
The lucky pattern of choice will be Butterick 5871, a funky 60's -70's blouse pattern with 5 variations. I love the styling for this and could use some summer blouses for work. I have a lot to add to this pattern as I need to do a FBA and grade it up a little at the waist and hips. It is a size 18/ 38" bust but more on that when the (grading) fun begins!